Haikou, Hainan Island

Haikou is the main city in the south of Hainan Island and was our first stop. The temperatures were in the low 20’s which despite the grey skies was a welcome relief after Guilin.

We had booked into a hostel for 3 nights which would give us time to explore the area. Once again we were shocked at the lack of English spoken but were getting better at sign language and picking what seemed to be the restaurants with the most palatable food.

We had intended cycling here as the Lonely Planet had portrayed the whole island as a cyclist paradise. We quickly changed our minds as we tried to walk around the city. The cars, always accompanied by the relentless horns obeyed the traffic lights but as in most of Asia paid no attention to pedestrians trying to cross the roads, despite “walk” signs. The biggest issue for us was the multitudes of electric motor scooters. They are silent as they come up behind you so you have no warning. Despite the lanes which have been made for them which one would assume they would travel in one direction they travel in whichever direction they want to go and also travel on the sidewalks. We were surprised many times when one was at your shoulder going by with no warning. Walking was a big enough liability let alone cycling—perhaps when we get to a smaller city?

Food choices were great and we were able to get great cappuccinos and baked goods near the university gates.

We spent one day touring the old city. This area as many other places we went to in China was in the throes of a “make over”. Scaffolding was erected for blocks and blocks and the old buildings were all being refaced to restore the area to the original style. Everywhere we went in China huge work projects were taking place so one hopes there is enough money in the coffers to complete all of these. I am sure at least it keeps millions employed.

We wandered along the streets and came across the local markets. The range of fruit and vegs was extensive—the climate of this area allows the growing of both temperate and tropical produce. Ken’s favourites, mango steins were in peak season so we enjoyed these the whole time we were in China.

The market was noisy with motor cycles with hooting horns negotiating the narrow lanes along with cyclists and pedestrians all carrying various baskets of produce or other sale-able items.

We wandered the market watching as the chicken’s, transported in baskets were dropped into a sack as their necks were broken. They were then dropped into a huge pot of boiling water and removed and plucked in just a few minutes.

Cats, also in a cage were taken and put into a sack for the purchaser as they howled and scratched—one could only assume they will be the next day’s dinner??

The oddest thing was that just around the corner the pet stores were selling cats as pets—guess it is just luck as to which cage you end up in?

Suddenly the noise level increased—if that is possible?—and people were crowding together. Not sure what we would find we went over to discover that the fresh fish must have arrived. Many varieties of fish were for sale including eels and other odd things which we had not seen before.

Obviously this was a big deal as the arguing and bargaining which went on was amazing. The noise level was crazy and unfortunately I did not have the presence of mind to video it.

The one thing we have learned so far in China is that arguing and bargaining are a way of life—to the extent that even in a line to buy a bus ticket each person will have to have a heated discussion and take 5 minutes to finally agree to pay the money to buy the ticket—frustrating when we always seem to be in the line with the biggest issues—we feel like going up to the front and just saying we will pay the price for the ticket with no arguments so would they sell ours to us first!!

We left the market area and found where they had finished the refacing some of the buildings. It seemed that they were going to have some very upscale tourist stores in the hope that wealthy tourists will arrive. One store owner was telling us that they will have cheaper rents for a while which will encourage new businesses to open.

We went into the tourist information centre which had about 6 young employees who all spoke a little English. When we asked if they had any information about Sanya—our next destination they looked with blank faces—I am not sure what they think their job entails but as we found in subsequent tourist information centres it does not appear to relate to tourist information.

Exploring the streets we found that in normal Asian fashion each kind of shops were grouped together—one street would have all of the hardware stores and the next street would all have lights—very different from our way of thinking which is to be the only game in town, here they believe the competition will just bring more buyers.

The following day we ventured on the bus to the local beach area and walked for several miles along a lovely beach. Although it was not cold it was not conducive to swimming and very few people were at the beach. It was a lovely walk and we enjoyed the relative peace offered by the walk.

We came across a great restaurant and lucked out with a spicy beef (we hope) stew with a dish of tasty greens.

The last day was spent wandering the parks where the locals hang out. They were kite flying and exercising as well as playing musical instruments.

The following day armed with our Chinese instructions we caught a taxi to the high speed train station where we would catch the train to Sanya which is at the far south of the island and is reputed to be sunny and warm—China’s Hawaii??